Archive for the ‘America’ Category

Beat Research

Monday, July 20th, 2009

beatresearch2

I’ve been Boston-based for the last several weeks as I discover my career and a stint in the Bean would not be complete without dropping some wax (digital or analog, it’s all good) at Beat Research.

This go around the bio reads –

DJ Gregzinho is just off another trip to Brazil, where he crisscrossed the favelas of Rio to meet up with DJs and MCs on the Flamin Hotz Records fair trade funk carioca releases Funkeiros e Progresso EP and Pancadão do Morro: O Funk do Flamin Hotz, Já É? They pushed plenty of fresh funk CD-Rs into his hands, and he also scoured São Paulo, Recife, and Salvador for some crate digging samba rock/rap, maracutu, guitarrada, Brazilian hip-hop, and MPB. Expect a wide range of Brazilian beats, as well as the usual pan-American sabores from Hudson Bay to the Tierra del Fuego. Gregzinho blogs about cities, beats, urban space, and landscapes at Beat Diaspora.

Been on a real Caribbean vibe in particular as of late.  Soca Monday, perhaps.

Beat Research at The Enormous Room
DJ Gregzinho, DJ Flack, wayne&wax
Monday, July 20, 9 pm-1 am
No cover, 21+
567 Mass Ave, Central Square, Cambridge, MA

Ja-Mai-Ca

Thursday, April 30th, 2009

dsc05042

On a blazing Saturday with Caribbean heat, the 115th Penn Relays really was a carnival47,904 packed the 50k capacity stadium at Franklin Field, and easily 3/4 of them were there to support the runners — high school through Olympians — from Jamaica.  Everywhere I turned there was a sea of green&gold.

dsc05038

dsc05063

dsc050471

As the massive outpouring of fans made abundantly clear, Jamaica is serious about track, a far cry as possible from comedies about a certain bobsled team.  It engenders incredible patriotic pride for a small, relatively impoverished island nation to run toe-to-toe with the USA.  That energy was on display, especially in the USA vs. The World events on Saturday.  I saw Asafa Powell, former fastest man in the world, who unfortunately injured himself in the men’s 4×100, but the rumored appearance of Usain Bolt (now fresh off a car crash, for what else, going too fast) never materialized.  Of course, there were plenty of other rising stars I didn’t recognize who got the fans on their feet chanting “JA-MAI-CA.”  Much to my surprise, there was a sizable American contingent that shouted right back, “U-S-A.”  This despite claims as recently as last summer of track’s fading glory in the U.S. sports pantheon.  The USA dominated most of those competitions, but Jamaican collegiate athletes did score a big win in the College Women’s 4×400 Championship of America, where the University of Technology took first.  Women are less susceptible than men to the athletic brain drain (shouldn’t it be muscle drain?) that sends talented Jamaican athletes overseas, but it was still an upset for UT, making its first appearance at the Penn Relays.  As the commentators deftly noted, they’ll certainly be invited back next year.

Ultimately, though, I found myself not that excited about spectating track and field.  Spectating the spectators was another matter.  The Jamaican scene that invades Philly for the Penn Relays is like a likkle slice of Kingston — or Brooklyn — in my backyard.  Fans sported every variation of Jamaican jersey or t-shirt (my favorite was something like “nobody run fass like wi”), vendors sold beef patties and jerk chicken, and there were dreadlocks and rastafari galore.  Judging by the Washington Post shielding one woman from the sun and the Brooklyn dancehall festival flyers being handed out, the Relays really attract a wide swath of the Jamaican diaspora.  One group bussed up from as far as Atlanta.

Sadly, construction in the area caused organizers to cancel the shutdown of adjacent Walnut Street, where vendors of all kinds set up.  Instead, they were scattered throughout West Philly, with the odd street corner occupied by a table selling Jamaican flags and the like.  One trio of Jamaican women that drove down from Brooklyn in a U-Haul full of Caribbean-emblazoned merch ended up around the corner from my house.  Far from the crowds, but convenient for me.

dsc05032

I picked up a Trinidad & Tobago football jersey, a small Jamaican flag to wave in the stands, an Usain Bolt button, and a Haiti bracelet.  One stop shop for the whole Caribbean basin!

The jersey would come in handy that night, when I decided to stake out for the West Philly afterhours dancehall scene.  I thought they’d be going strong in light of Penn Relays weekend, but Friday must have been the bigger night, like the Tony Matterhorn show at a swanky club downtown.  By the admittedly late hour of 3:30, the Ibis Lounge and their soca vs. dancehall party was already winding down (which is to say, less winding . . .) and the bouncer was in no mood to let me in, saying you have to enter by 2:30.  A drunk woman of some importance — an owner, perhaps? — was bemused by my T&T jersey, however, and convinced him to let me in.  “The boy say he from Trinidad!  He and his girl just want to party!”  We caught a handful of slow reggae jams on a thinning dancefloor and didn’t stay for long.

Lessons learned.  I’ll plan better for Penn Relays 2010.

dsc05033

Runners’ Carnival

Wednesday, April 1st, 2009

Listening to Caribbean Beatz over the weekend and the host called attention to a fundraiser for the Jamaican contingent coming to this month’s Penn Relays track & field meet (which intriguingly bills itself as a “Carnival“).  A Haitian guest started giving the host, himself from Trinidad, a hard time that it was all to support the Jamaicans.  He went off on a tangent about Haiti’s moment of international sporting glory — their 1974 World Cup appearance, where they managed to score the first goal against Italy (then lose that and the rest of their games).  The Trini host brought it back to the point, though: Trinidad sends barely a half dozen athletes to the Relays, but so what.  If the Jamaicans are the most talened, then Caribbean community as a whole should support them.

Not that, as the Heatwave points out, it would preclude Jamaicans from jumping on the soca bandwagon.  And when the track & field carnival comes to town, it’ll be a full-on dancehall/soca/pan-Caribbean affair to support the next generation of Usain Bolts.  Plenty to rival the Mavado show — I stuck with the Guinness.

pricelist

Rhymes on the Bus

Monday, February 16th, 2009

A smattering of BusTube hip-hop from the last couple months.

The good (catchy bike rack rap on River City Transit [Louisville], h/t BCP) –

The bad (SEPTA obsession, by his own admission Buswizard isn’t a very good rapper, h/t 51:51) –

The ugly (young black Atlantans snubbing MARTA & the ladies) –

Buses are an essential supplement to their more glamorous cousins — subways, light rails, and trains of all kinds — but suffer from perennial image problems.  As Margaret Thatcher heinously (and apocryphally) said, “A man who, beyond the age of 26, finds himself on a bus can count himself as a failure.”  Not that efforts haven’t been made in the U.S. to spruce them up.  I was most amazed at the prevalence of bus travel in San Francisco, where the Muni does some heavy-duty people moving given the lack of a really extensive city subway system (regional BART notwithstanding).  In addition to accurate LED displays of when the next bus is coming at almost every stop, the tech-savvy SF crowd can go to nextmuni.com and track their route in real time.  My cousins commute via bus every day with a stop outside the door of their apartment building.  They keep tabs on their bus in the morning and walk outside just as it’s arriving.  Bus without the fuss — a miracle.

The River City / Louisville PSA is encouraging, with even mid-sized cities getting in on the bike rack craze, especially in a place with a temperate climate where you can ride a bike most of the year.  The SEPTA rap is some weird geekery, I admit, for a very extensive bus system that, coupled with relatively minimal subway service in a dense metro area, is a pretty essential part of the system.  Sure people drive their cars in Philly, but it’s nothing like Atlanta, where I’m not surprised that the image of aspiration is tell a girl to fuck off by relegating her to the bus.  Let’s hope the BeltLine arrives to change perceptions sooner rather than later for all the fly ladies in Hotlanta.

Good Neighbors / Bons Vizinhos

Saturday, January 31st, 2009

Clarification: “Blame It On Samba,” the first ZéTube I embedded below, was released after World War II in 1948.  I didn’t explicitly attribute it to either of the WWII Latin Disney efforts that I cited, but if it was unintentionally implied, well there you have it. (thx Kariann Goldschmitt)

____

The decidedly unBrazilian weather this week cancelled Wednesday night’s Braziladelphia/Discoteca party, but instead I caught up on some Brazilian linkthink –

  • Brazil Soul Power, made for a UT-Austin master’s, makes me think universities all over should require websites this good to graduate (h/t Andrew Giessel).

I’ve also been poring over some vintage Disney (h/t Kasanova) down south:

While I am charmed by the notion that samba can sweep away the literal blues plaguing Daffy Duck and Zé Carioca (more on him in a minute), I do wonder about the dual nature of “blame,” which certainly has more a negative that positive connotation.  What is the title suggesting that you blame on samba?  Is it an excuse for distraction?  An implied Brazilian attitude to shrug off responsibility?  It’s left very unclear.  From a more musical level, moreover, there is very little that actually sounds like samba, especially during the first half before the samba cocktail gets going with the live woman playing keyboard.  Samba to dance to is rarely if ever a one-person affair and I find it strange they didn’t show a full band, unless maybe there were technical limitations (and the larger-than-life instruments were supposed to fulfill that role).  The dancing, however, of both the cartoon characters and the real dancers, was not samba at all — this coming from a gringo who has tried very hard (and failed) to learn how to sambar.

“Aquarela do Brasil,” a scene from the 1942 Disney release Saludos Amigos (more, in turn, on that in a minute), gets it much better, thanks in no small part to a bonafide samba classic by Ary Barroso being the source musical material.  The cross-cultural exchange between the clueless tourist Daffy (the monolingual American mispronouncing Portugese) and the much suaver José (notably defined by his name — he is carioca so much that it names him) is simple but effective.  Daffy extends his hand for a shake; Zé grabs him in a warm embrace.  Daffy sees the bottle of cachaça and thinks it’s sodapop; Zé downs his no problem and lights his cigar off the fire that Daffy breathes from drinking it too fast.

But while the cartoon might well have served as a tourism promotion tool, it was actually part of much larger geopolitical machinations.  Disney traveled to South America and received government backing to produce films lauding our new South American friends, products of the “Good Neighbor Policy” designed to keep them under the Allies’ sphere of influence.  In addition to Saludos Amigos, the American viewing public also got 1944’s The Three Caballeros. In a disappointing linguistic blunder, both chose Spanish titles even though the Portuguese-speaking Zé Carioca was a main character in both and Carmen Miranda’s younger sister features in the latter.  Carmen Miranda, meanwhile, was an in-the-flesh Latin promotion effort, a story told probingly in the documentary Bananas is my Business.  The symbolism and imagery of these efforts to promote Brazil to the American public were naturally one-dimensional, especially having a lily white (and Portugal-born) chanteuse singing samba, which a scant generation earlier was derided as too African.

Of course, the kind of samba being promoted was itself far from the spontaneous, imprompu tradition from which the music sprang.  “Aquarela do Brasil” was a samba-exaltação (exaltation samba), patriotic in purpose and serving the interests of the dictatorial and quasi-fascist Vargas regime.  It was Vargas who had institutionalized the samba parade in Rio during the 1930s, turning it into a tool of nationalist pride, making it rigid, orderly, an almost military processional.  The state, in essence, co-opted a cultural form — or at least one major manifestation of it — steeped in resistance to the dominant order.  But the ’30s and ’40s were a time of dominant orders and militarization.  The Good Neighbor Policy worked ultimately, with Brazil declaring war on Nazi Germany in 1943 after one too many U-Boat attacks on its ships.  Here is the less playful side of Brazil that the Office of War Information portrayed:

That supposed 3 million man army was in reality the much smaller 25,000 strong Brazilian Expeditionary Force, which saw heavy combat in Italy.  Thus the end result of samba politics.  A sullied use of music, perhaps, although I am not so hyper-normative as to be unwilling to affirm my gratitude that Brazil chose to side with the Allies rather than the Axis (which was not a foregone conclusion, given that Vargas’ political proclivities were quite Mussolini-esque).  One use of culture begats another, though, and the result by 1960 was a prominent piece of monumental architecture in the Brazilian international style dedicated to the soldiers of World War II.

pracinhas-ccby

Po(e) House

Tuesday, January 27th, 2009

White tourist: “Excuse me, can you tell me where the Poe House is?”

Black woman, on front steps of row house: “Poe house? Look around you, every house ’round here is a po’ house.”

The Wire

The unintended irony of slang and dialect.  In 1940, the city of Baltimore nearly tore down the Poe House to build the Poe Homes, the city’s oldest remaining public housing.  This remarkably comprehensive history of West Baltimore past/present/&future explains that the motivation for the Poe Homes was the influx of southern black migrants during the city’s wartime industrial boom.

Of course, as season two of The Wire will just as quickly point out, that boom became a bust a long time ago.  Now, the Poe house occupies an awkward position.  It is the locus classicus for the ultimate Baltimore author (recent northeast corridor debates aside), the one who bequeathed the name of the no-longer-Super-Bowl-contending Ravens, losing the day before his 200th birthday — and the occasion for my visit that same day.  Yet, to be blunt, it is located squarely in a neighborhood most white Baltimoreans (whether city dwellers or suburbanites) conscientiously avoid.

A fellow Wire devotee/Poe seeker reports on the House’s message machine, which strenuously declares, “Do not, by absolutely any means, walk to the Poe House!  No, seriously, don’t.  We know you think you can, but you cannot.  Stop it.“  They evidently change it, as it currently announces, “The Poe House is not walking distance from the Inner Harbor, the Convention Center, or Camden Yards.  It is not walking distance.  Drive, or take a cab.”

Such blunt assertions are shockingly disheartening to me as someone who believes in the easy freedom of urban space, where density permits walking, where as a pedestrian you can encounter the city at its most vital level, the street.  Most importantly, the message machine tells a boldface lie.  The Poe House is a scant mile from Camden Yards, arguably the city’s biggest attraction, but because it’s a mile in the “wrong” direction, it’s not walkable.  It is a mile from Camden Yards to the Flag House, but since that walk takes place squarely inside Baltimore’s “Green Zone” Inner Harbor, I doubt anyone will tell you that it isn’t walkable.

For the record, I drove, although I did have an 11-year-old in tow.  If I had my druthers, I would have walked one way and taken the bus the other (cf earlier experiments in Baltimore public transportation).  From what I observed, the warning may be outdated now, as the University of Maryland Medical Center has not so subtly crept across the downtown/West Baltimore divider of MLK Boulevard.  Still, while there’s nothing to fear about a public housing project, the scene isn’t so pretty across the street.

The popo protecting the Poe House from the po’?  Language games aside, that the Poe House looks out over a trash-strewn vacant lot and boarded up rowhouses neatly encapsulates Baltimore’s paradoxical trajectories.  On the one hand, the Poe House is precisely the right kind of attraction for the city.  It is quirky (the tiniest rowhouse you have ever seen) but historical, drawing on Baltimore’s rich past as an admittedly once great American city.  In a city where the price is right — cue creative class –  for writers, artists, and musicians, the Poe House is a tremendous symbol that could link past to present.  On the other hand, as of yet the CC hasn’t been enough to reverse Baltimore’s declining population trends, and certainly haven’t proliferated outside of a handful of neighborhoods to have ripple effects on the economy and housing stock of, say, the rest of Amity Street across from the Poe House.

Unfortunately, as a trip to the Poe House confirms, Baltimore is far from reclaiming the mantle it proclaims on its benches, and in many key aspects, shares unfortunate traits with Poe’s ultimate resting place (which I should add is not by the House, but rather in a cemetery close enough to Lexington Market and on the “right” side of MLK Boulevard, so it, surely, is walkable).

cello, boom box, harmonica, voice

Tuesday, January 20th, 2009

Praise Song for the Day

Elizabeth Alexander

Each day we go about our business

walking past each other,

catching each others’ eyes

or not,

about to speak or speaking.

All about us is noise.

All about us is noise and bramble,

thorn and din,

each one of our ancestors on our tongues.

Someone is stitching up a hem, darning a hole in a uniform, patching a tire, repairing the things in need of repair.

Someone is trying to make music somewhere with a pair of wooden spoons

on an oil drum.

With cello, boom box, harmonica, voice.

A woman and her son wait for the bus.

A farmer considers the changing sky.

A teacher says, “Take out your pencils. Begin.”

We encounter each other in words,

Words spiny or smooth, whispered or declaimed,

Words to consider, reconsider.

We cross dirt roads and highways that mark the will of someone

and then others who said, “I need to see what’s on the other side.

I know there’s something better down the road.”

We need to find a place where we are safe.

We walk into that which we cannot yet see.

Say it plain: that many have died for this day.

Sing the names of the dead who brought us here,

who laid the train tracks,

raised the bridges,

picked the cotton and the lettuce,

built brick by brick the glittering edifices they would then keep clean and work inside of.

Praise song for struggle. Praise song for the day. Praise song for every hand-lettered sign.

The figuring it out at kitchen tables.

Some live by “Love thy neighbor as thy self.”

Others by first do no harm, or take no more than you need.

What if the mightiest word is love, love beyond marital, filial, national?

Love that casts a widening pool of light.

Love with no need to preempt grievance.

In today’s sharp sparkle, this winter air, anything can be made, any sentence begun.

On the brink, on the brim, on the cusp – praise song for walking forward in that light.

Bay Area Jet Lag

Tuesday, January 13th, 2009

Back in Philly from my west coast excursion, wrapping up in the Bay Area.  What does it mean to have a bay as your locus of organization?  It means sprawl, to a large extent, cities & suburbs & satellites reaching all around a bay that is almost a lake, the more temperate counterpart to Tahoe, due east.  But it all converges on the shipyards, the port, the bridges, and then harbor leading out into the Pacific, the cluster at SF-Berkeley-Oakland.

I wasn’t around Oakland on the last Saturday of the month to take the Black Panther Legacy Tour, but I got my own streetside view from the mighty Teutonic-Sherbronic Chief Boima.  He’s got a good lay of the land after living there for several years, but also knowledge of the tale from the other side of the bay.  Western Addition, one of the few remaining black neighborhoods in post-urban renewal SF, also claims to be the BP birthplace.

Either way, tumultuous Oakland rolls on, with protests over a New Year’s Eve shooting devolving into a riot.  Today, native son Rickey Henderson is headed to the Hall of Fame.  This is an Oakland, not a San Francisco, not a Bay Area victory.  The Raiders are a religion.  And maybe this show of respect for the mighty Athletics will calm some overheated minds.

We cruised those streets less than a week before, old school hyphy (proto-hyphy? classifications be damned, “hyphy is an attitude,” Boima says) on 106 KMEL, Boima giving me & Refusenik a history of Yay Area hip-hop.  We didn’t come across any sideshows, not in the dead of winter, and who knows what the crackdown holds for next summer.  The sound’s time in the national rap spotlight has already come&gone, but that — and the spontaneity, the unpredictability, “you won’t find a flyer for it,” — may keep its integrity?  This could easily be my east coast mind conflating two distinct Bay Area phenomena, but it’s hard not to see a correlation to happenings in a city that still has a penchant for the bizarre.

Across the bay, then, with much time spent in the Mission district, a neighborhood transitioning from Latino stronghold to what Joel Kotkin calls “the ephemeral city.”  I understand that “hip” or “trendy” neighbohoods begin to acquire a certain sameness — my 24 hours in Seattle’s Capitol Hill were fairly indistinguishable from some Williamsburg/Northern Liberties/Wicker Park hybrid, minus the views over the Puget Sound and into the Olympic Mountains.  But in the Mission, there is a more unique dynamic at work.  Often the separation between Latino and young&white is block by block, but at the end of the day everyone is going to mix in the street, at the BART, in the taqueria.

The influx of younger professionals with money to burn is, of course, a boon to store and restaurant owners (tell me Taqueria Cancun was doing such a brisk business at 3 am ten years ago?).  And for those who already own their home, the rise in property values brought on by gentrification is only making them wealthier.  Not that there hasn’t been displacement, but how often do you get the city council fighting against encroachment on a poorer neighborhood instead of pushing for lucrative development to plow straight ahead?

Sometimes those facets can be bridged, though, and not just through the medium of commerce (one buying the good or service of another).  Music is a lubricant in a neighborhood rich with venues, and while I couldn’t attend a Tormenta Tropical myself (missing The Heatwave was a damn shame), I have nothing but admiration for Bersa Discos bringing cumbeiros in to rub elbows at The Elbo Room with the hip set.  They also print flyers in an estilo mexicano that blends seamlessly into the neighborhood.  Who’s throwing the party, gringos or Latinos?  More importantly, does it matter if it sounds right?  In capturing the audio&visual aesthetic of the Mission, they are sewing the neighborhood together one party at a time.

And not to slight my gracious host Boima, whose own sweaty African soirée at Little Baobab was another diasporic revelation.  There is no West African neighborhood to my knowledge, but dispersed as they are throughout SF/the Bay Area (dispersed in turn from W. Africa, natch), they all seem to cram into this tiny Senegalese bar and sing along to every word of the high-energy coupé décalé beats.  It’s a mixed crowd — black, white, gay, straight, anything in between — and everyone seems to be dancing.  Amazingly, it all seems friendly and never sleazy, just pulsating rhythms that command everyone to move, especially after a few of those ginger punches.

The Mission is a model — however in flux.

Year of the Train

Sunday, January 4th, 2009

The train is Beat Diaspora’s prediction for 2009.  Wrapping up my west coast explorations, I was thoroughly impressed with Amtrak California.  The northeast corridor thinks it has a monopoly on quality train travel in the U.S., but in fact this state/federal partnership has put some impressive machinery on the tracks.  Folks may still love their cars to explore the big, open west, but I found it wasn’t such a bad way to get around.  My visit is hot on the heels of plenty of encouraging train news both here & abroad:

  • While the California election results were mired in the Prop 8 blame game, further up the ballot Prop 1A sailed through.  Granted, California’s budget crisis and the ongoing global credit crunch are unlikely to free up those $10 billion any time soon, but traffic-weary Californians can take solace that somewhere down the road, there will be a California Bullet.
  • China is amping up its rail infrastructure in the new year, set to go from over double to over triple the number of miles of track that we have in the U.S.
  • Not to suggest keeping up with the Changs, but I’m sorry to hear the Obama stimulus package is veering off track with state projects almost exclusively for roads.  Here is one Bay Area voice arguing that mass transit shouldn’t be left in the rear view mirror.
  • Unfortunately, I’m left to conclude that Obama’s planned arrival by train is more for the Lincoln symbolism (Bible anyone?) than a new direction in national transportation policy.

Railroad blues?  Check this archive for an extensive soundtrack to the American train experience.  It’s a broad run, from American folk music to Thomas the Tank Engine.

Nothing synchs the pleasant repetition of crossing train ties for me like some deep techno, the kind you get lost in for hours.  Shuttling between Boston and Philadelphia and D.C. and points in between, especially at night, those are the beats that carry me from station to station.

Europe — haven for techno and trains alike — has been combining the two for over thirty years now (Trans-Europe Express, c. 1977).  For a more recent iteration, check out Daso & Pawas’ Night Express EP (Flash Recordings), whose tracks namecheck both the ICE (German express train) and TGV (the French one).

Eight Crazy Nights

Sunday, December 28th, 2008

Tonight is the last night of the much overhyped holiday of Hanukkah.  Sure, its amplified place in the American Jewish calendar is due almost entirely to its December neighbor, but I still light my menorah religiously (no pun intended).  Although I can’t claim the recycled number above as my own.

While Hanukkah music seems permanently mired in Adam Sandler c. 1995 and the pop culture wave it unleashed, there is a new mensch on the block.  Erran Baron Cohen, brother of Borat fame and an accomplished musician, just released “Songs in the Key of Hanukkah.”  They are remarkably un-kitschy and include vocals by a Hassidic rapper who isn’t Matisyahu.  Recommended, some may even make it into a DJ set near you.

The end of the holiday is also as good a time as any to catch up on a couple J-links of note:

Chag sameach, blogosphere.